A recent visit to a new brasserie in west London offered a dining experience that was as peculiar as it was polished. Located on the banks of the Thames, the restaurant promises a classically inspired menu in an elegant setting. The reality, however, proved to be far more unusual.
Upon arrival, the first challenge was simply finding the entrance. The establishment is discreetly housed within a well-known football ground, a detail not immediately apparent from its marketing. After navigating a series of corridors, the dining room was finally discovered—an opulent space that felt more like a private function room than a neighbourhood eatery.
The food itself was largely excellent. Dishes such as a Dorset crab vol-au-vent and a treacle, date, and walnut tart were executed with precision and flair. The kitchen demonstrated a clear command of technique, delivering flavours that were both refined and satisfying.
Yet, the atmosphere took a strange turn. Initially seated in a near-empty room, the space soon filled with other diners. However, these guests appeared to be engaged in a pantomime of lunch. They sat at tables without menus, conversed animatedly, yet had little to no food before them. As the meal concluded and the bill was settled, these “diners” promptly departed in unison, leaving the room as empty as it had been upon arrival.
The entire episode felt like a staged performance, creating a surreal and isolating experience. While the culinary offerings were commendable, the bizarre theatre of it all made for one of the most memorable, and frankly odd, meals of the season.
