Saturday, December 06, 2025

A CULINARY WORLD TOUR LANDS IN AN ESSEX COURTYARD

1 min read

Tucked away in a cobbled Essex courtyard, a neighbourhood restaurant is drawing crowds with a menu that gleefully ignores culinary borders. Fête, run by chef Tobias Godfrey and his partner Laura Day, has become a local sensation by serving a globe-trotting selection of dishes in a relaxed, unpretentious setting.

The atmosphere is one of vibrant, happy chaos, especially on weekend evenings. The front-of-house team radiates enthusiasm, and the kitchen buzzes with the energy of a team thoroughly enjoying their work. The restaurant’s recent recognition as a runner-up in a regional food award has only amplified its popularity.

What sets this establishment apart is its fearless and eclectic menu. On a single evening, you might start with Taiwanese chicken bao, move to Kashmiri scallops, and then share a plate of duck-fried rice with kimchi. The philosophy is one of generous, hearty portions and bold, pan-global flavours, all served with a casual confidence as if such combinations were the most natural thing in the world.

Dishes are designed for maximum impact. A burrata arrives laden with figs, hot honey, pistachios, and beetroot, accompanied by a slab of sourdough. A notably large beef tartare, punctuated with capers and cornichons, comes with crispy kale and a wobbly egg yolk. The duck-fried rice, a standout, is a generous bowl topped with a fried egg and spiked with XO sauce and chilli.

This adventurous approach does mean that not every element is perfectly refined. On occasion, a piece of fish can be overcooked, or a dish might feel slightly unbalanced. Yet, these are minor points in a meal that is overwhelmingly enjoyable and satisfying. The experience culminates in desserts like a rich chocolate fondant with burnt butter ice cream, a fitting end to a generous feast.

Fête succeeds not through perfection, but through its spirited and generous hospitality. It’s a restaurant that feels like a celebration, proving that a truly exciting meal doesn’t need a passport—just an appetite for adventure.