PARIS – The house of Chanel embarked on a new trajectory under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy, whose debut collection for the storied fashion label was unveiled during Paris Fashion Week. The presentation, staged beneath a celestial installation featuring a glowing sun and orbiting planets, signaled a significant departure for the brand.
Blazy’s approach appears to draw from the rebellious spirit of founder Coco Chanel, reinterpreted for contemporary sensibilities. The collection featured tailored jackets cropped to the hip, worn not with traditional skirts but with trousers cut for ease of movement. This nod to the founder’s preference for practical elegance was a recurring theme throughout the presentation.
The designer’s vision extended to accessories, with the iconic quilted handbag reimagined in a relaxed, lived-in manner. New bag designs, including a unisex version, appeared consistently across looks. The house’s signature camellia motif was transformed into oversized, sculptural forms resembling sea urchins, while a black-trimmed white suit subtly referenced the brand’s famous fragrance bottle.
Industry observers noted the significance of placing a Black woman at the center of the brand’s new vision, signaling a commitment to broader representation. The appointment of new ambassadors reflects an effort to bring greater diversity to the faces representing the heritage label.
The presentation marks a pivotal moment for Chanel as it moves beyond the long shadow of previous creative leadership. While acknowledging the important work of his immediate predecessor in maintaining continuity, company leadership emphasized the need for fresh creative perspective to drive the brand forward.
Blazy, who has described Chanel as possessing universal appeal comparable to global consumer brands, appears to have shaken up the fashion house’s established codes while respecting its legacy. The collection balanced reverence for tradition with bold innovation, suggesting a new chapter for one of fashion’s most iconic names.
The next presentation for the brand is scheduled for December in New York, continuing Blazy’s reframing of Chanel’s global identity.
